“She’s angry, but funny-angry,” said Paulo Melim Andersson of the girl he imagined while designing his first collection for Chloé. “A girl who steals from her mother. I want this to be young-young, with no tricks. Clean, but not minimal.” Melim Andersson, formerly of Marni, brought the label in a daring new direction with his fall line. Gone were the feminine, floating dresses from Phoebe Philo’s time at Chloé. Now girls in combat boots dressed in black with pops of orange and patent leather stomped down the runway. The new Chloé is tougher, darker, more downtown New York. The dress above appeared on several trend-watch lists, making exposed zippers a coveted item for fall. Now the industry waits to see what Melim Andersson does next with the popular label.