Shoulders. Shoulders, shoulders, shoulders. We’re only a couple of days into fashion week, but already there’s a big trend emerging. We say ‘emerging’, we’ve known about the return of the shoulder for ages, but it’s really showing itself in the collections in New York. Following a much softer silhouette last season, Jonathan Saunders has delivered a much stricter, more powerful collection for Autumn / Winter, with shoulders at the forefront. They were chunky and square, round and bubbled, or accentuated with sashes of bright colour. The main inspiration was birds, with bright colours cutting through a black background, and touches like rich brocades, bold prints and skyline-effect belts cut through to add interest. As usual, Saunders was on top form, bringing together all kinds of ideas but somehow delivering them cohesively.

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Diane Von Furstenberg’s flower children have definitely grown up for Fall 2009. Picking rich, sumptuous fabrics, glam prints and beautiful brocades, the collection was a touch of subtle glamour for a season that’s driven mainly by the recession. Huge cocoon coats and slouchy draped cardigans concealed layered looks in clashing prints like leopard, Prince of Wales check and geometric swirls. The usual wrap dresses, chic knits and wearable shaped were teamed with leggings, huge pom-pom hats and chunky jewellery for a youthful edge. By night, it got more glam with bacofoil dresses, animal print sheaths and sequin shifts. [all images courtesy of Coutorture.com]

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