Not all designers have a big catwalk show to showcase their new collections, some opt for a small, intimate presentation. It allows the guests to look at the clothes in depth, from every angle and for a longer period than a fleeting appearance on a catwalk. Some designs really require a second look, because the genius lies in the details, and this was the case for Christian Blanken.
Archive for the ‘London fashion week’ Category
Amanda Wakeley Spring/Summer 2012
Showing directly after the all-dancing, colourful spectacle at Meadham Kirchhoff, Amanda Wakeley’s show felt somewhat like having our happy bubble burst. This is perhaps a little bit unfair, but for a brief moment we were reminded of how fun fashion could be, Amanda Wakeley brought us back to reality with a hard thud. This isn’t to say that the collection is no good, not at all, it’s just that it was a little… serious.
There were lots of long grecian draped dresses in a comfortable silk-jersey, which meant they could easily be transformed from eveningwear into daywear, with just a few styling adjustments. Some featured leather detailing, others sported a few sequinned elements, but all this was kept to a bare minimum. The colour palette moved from black and navy to flashes of coral red, mustard yellow and ended with turquoise. The simple leather accessories were a real highlight, with the oversized leather envelope clutches now featuring high up on my wishlist.
It was a solid collection, but just not terribly exciting. But then, Wakeley has never been a big trendsetter, she just does what she does, and does it well. Sadly I’ll probably only rremember the model who tumbled all the way up and down the catwalk after getting her shoe stuck in her hemline.
Alex is the author of popular fashion blog www.alexloves.com
All images: Press Association
The invites to fashion-darling Michael van der Ham’s show were all individual, handmade collages. Immediately after the first model stepped onto the catwalk we understood why: instead of his trademark patchwork, van der Ham had evolved his signature style into collages (there is a big difference, I promise). The colourful designs were everything you expect from the young Dutchman, but for the first time, we saw a commercial side to the collection too. Lots of pretty delicate shirts, simple shift dresses (well, as simple as a van der Ham shift could be) and printed Christian Louboutin heels showed a real sense of understanding of his customer: a classy, chic woman who likes to stand out, but doesn’t want to go completely over the top as was sometimes the case in his previous collections. I even desperately want one of the two-tone trousers, usually a major fashion no-no.
There’s a thin line between making collages look like a crafts-class gone wrong, but Van der Ham managed to stay on the right side of tacky. One of the stand-out shows of the week, by far.
Danielle Scutt was the penultimate designer to show at London Fashion Week and there was definitely that “end-of-exams” kind of feeling around the tent. I’ve always loved Scutt’s quirky style, so I was quite excited to see what she had come up with this season. According to the press notes, the collection was inspired by youth culture from the Nineties, when the designer was growing up. This meant thugs, skin heads and other quite masculine subcultures. Through her collection she wanted to show a girl who’s grown up to be a strong woman after growing up in those days.
It sounded fascinating and a great concept to work from, but the reality of it was a little confusing. It started with elegant evening wear, beautiful copper metallic skirts and tops, then moved on to bleached dip dyed denim, then moving on to some pretty yellow and black pieces which were styled with cannabis references, to eventually end with a series of tartan pieces – one of which featured a picture of Tupac.
Some pieces bizarrely had T-shirts clipped to the front, whilst others wore turban style hats made out of T-shirts and with a section of a newspaper stuffed into it. The whole thing left me quite confused, and if it weren’t for the explanation in the press notes, I would have hated it. It had too many ideas floating around, where one would have worked just fine. I think youth subcultures make a great subject, but there’s no need to reference every single one of them. The show as a whole just didn’t feel cohesive.
It’s clear Danielle Scutt is an amazingly talented young designer, one of the most exciting ones of her genereation. I loved the copper skirts and the bleached denim pieces had me craving for more, but on the whole, I was left a little disappointed.
Alex is the author of popular fashion blog www.alexloves.com
Images: Press Association
As it was the last day of London Fashion Week, lots of top editors had already packed their bags and left for Milan, which meant they ended up missed one of the best and funniest shows ever. Meadham Kirchhoff put on a real spectacle, which had everyone laughing so hard – including a brief smile on Anna Wintour’s face – we almost forgot about our painful feet and lack of sleep.
Words can’t quite describe what went on, but here’s an attempt. A Hole track burst onto the speakers and out came a dozen girls with messy blonde bobs, smeared make up and matching pastel-coloured satin dresses which revealed their neon bras. As they came on they were frantically putting on lipstick or powdering their faces, and just as we were wondering whether this was the collection, the girls burst into a choreographed dance routine, to everyone’s delight. The “real” models then appeared and walked around them, wearing clown and cartoon-inspired outfits. To be honest, I was too distracted by the dancing girls to really notice.
Then the music drastically changed to slow classical music, and out came a group of little ballerinas, butterfly wings, tutu’s and all. Cue lots of ooh and aaah-ing. The ballerinas performed a little ballet routine, again with the models walking around them. Then out of nowhere, the gold curtain opened up revealing another handful of showgirl-style models on a tiered podium. One surprise kept following another until there were editors in tears of laughter. You’ve got to hand it to the Meadham Kirchhoff boys: they managed to make fashion fun again. After days of trawling around town, queueing for hours and lack of sleep, this was just the little boost we all very much needed.
As for the actual clothes? I only really saw them after I arrived back home. Between the completely over-the-top styling and almost theatrical spectacle, there were actually some incredible pieces there. Some of it a modern take on Marie-Antoinette-style dresses, others inspired by the circus and even showgirls. However, the cartoon-esque knitwear sweaters are bound to be on every fashionista’s wishlist.
Thanks boys, for putting that much-needed smile back on our faces. Those on the way to Milan will be kicking themselves, as this show will be the talk of the town for some time.
Alex is the author of popular fashion blog www.alexloves.com
Images: London Fashion Week and Press Association
Having gone from the signature of chavs, Burberry’s reputation has blossomed over the recent years and has grown to become the hottest ticket of the London Fashion Week. Burberry’s catwalk shows normally attracts the who’s who of fashion, music and celeb land; set in beautiful surroundings in the middle of Hyde Park the spring/summer 2012 Burberry Catwalk was no exception: Mario Testino, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Anna Wintour, Kanye West, Gemma Arterton, Andy Murray, Rachel Zoe, Poppy Delevigne, Jaquetta Wheeler.
Below is a selection of the celebrities – dressed in Burberry of course – as they were photographed on their way in to the venue. Oh yeah, and you can check out the spring/summer 2012 collection here!
Photo credit: Press Association
Nicole Farhi welcomed fashionistas to a garden party at the rather aptly venue: the Royal Horticultural Society. Her spring/summer 2012 collection showed a designer who has come into full bloom after 30 years in the industry, offering a bouquet of tulip-shaped dresses and skirts in hues of sunflower yellow, clementine orange and candy pink and rose-prints.
Farhi’s love for experimenting with the fabrics was noticeable, showing tunics in exaggerated mesh and leather laser-cut flowers and plastic sequins on shirts.
And those retro orange sunglasses were amazing. We’re so adding it to next year’s summer shopping list!
Monday brought with it Erdem, the lovely Erdem, Pringle of Scotland, Giles and… Burberry but more about that later.
Anna Wintour took a front row place at Erdem along with Harry Potter star Clemence Posy and British model Erin O’Connor. Another Potter graduate, Bonnie Wright was spotted at Pringle along with Rosario Dawson and actress Tilda Swinton, who was aptly dressed in a Pringle sweater with is signature Argyle pattern.
Meanwhile the young and fabulous flocked to Giles’ catwalk show, with the likes of Jessie J, Kelly Brook, Pixie Geldof, Nick Grimshaw and Dannii Minogue placing their bums on the front row seats.
Anna Wintour at Erdem
Going to Waterloo station on a Monday morning during the worst of the London rush hour is not my idea of fun, but for Peter Pilotto I chose to endure it. Held in the old Eurostar terminal, next to the unused railtracks, a bunch of tired-looking fashionista’s gathered, much to the bemusement of the early-morning commuters. The label is sponsored by the New Gen scheme, which meant a yummy pre-show breakfast and much-needed cup of coffee courtesy of Topshop. The boys of Peter Pilotto (which consists of Austrian-Italian Peter Pilotto and Belgian-Peruvian Christopher de Vos), have definitely assembled a little bit of a cult-following over the past few years. A large number of guests are always proudly wearing some of their designs at the show, as if to confirm their status as real fans.
The collection, this time inspired by a trip to Indonesia, featured lots of their signature mismatched colourful prints, this time added with a three-dimensional effect by using embroidery and beading, all painstakingly applied by hand. Their trademark wrap dresses were less present, this time choosing to play more with volume, never seen at Pilotto before. Beautiful full pleated skirts were accentuated by the tight fitted tops, whilst other looks featured body-con silhouettes layered with neoprene jackets, which, with their oversized zippers were reminiscent of wetsuits. The perspex-heeled beaded shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood sent a slight shiver of happiness down my spine. Peter Pilotto’s fans will have a great summer to look forward to, as this had to be one of their best and most cohesive collection so far. I absolutely adored every moment of it, well worth the early morning start.
Alex is the author of popular fashion blog www.alexloves.com
Images: London Fashion Week
Burberry Prosum Spring/Summer 2012
With a front row always packed with celebs, a spectacular location and all the world’s top models walking in one show, the Burberry shows have fast become the hottest ticket of the London Fashion Week. This time, it was no different: Sienna Miller, Kanye West, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Ellie Goulding, Andy Murray, Anna Wintour, Rachel Zoe, Mario Testino,… the list of Burberry-clad celebs goes on and on and it makes for a fun half hour of celebspotting before the show begins.
But let’s not forget the clothes, which is why we’re there after all. There was a slight Oriental theme to the summer collection, with trenchcoats and calf-length dresses adorned with colourful beading, crochet collars and geometric patterns. There were tribal prints – something not often seen at Burberry, and the bags, too, got a flash of colour, whilst the models’ straw bobble hats added a bit of fun to the mix. A great, upbeat collection featuring some fresh ideas, as the last winter collection had been a little bit of a repeat from previous years. For the finale, the models were showered in a rain of gold confetti, which had a breathtaking effect to those in the tent.
Spectators at home got a little treat as well. Christopher Bailey is a tech-savvy genius, who, only a few seasons ago pioneered the livestreaming movement, opening his shows up to a global audience. He also did the first show in 3D, one of the first to incorporate Twitter and allowed people to buy the clothes online straight after the show. So, it came as no surprise that he had another trick up his sleeve: this time you would not only be able to buy the clothes during the live show (until September 26th), but Burberry would be the first to have a Tweetwalk, where Twitter users would be able to see the full look of each model right before she hit the catwalk, thus allowing people at home to have the real exclusive. This means of course the going to the show is actually now completely unnecessary, and yet, I wouldn’t trade the real thing for the world.
Love him or hate him, it’s pretty much impossible to dispute that when it comes to London Fashion Week, Henry Holland rules this town with his cheeky, anarchic attitude towards fashion that you get the feeling is largely influenced by his cool brat-pack of high-profile friends. The designer everyone wants to be best friends with in the hope that he’ll honour you on one of his T-shirts, his show is always going to be one of the hottest tickets in town when Fashion Week rolls around again.
The new House of Holland Spring/Summer collection that he showed on Saturday was typically Hollandesque in that there were all the bratty, cartoonish elements in his design that always remind us of old poppy coming-of-age Nickelodeon shows from the 90s and much-loved teen movies- Holland always keeps things sassy with some eye-popping prints and clunky little-girl styles that take the “Kinderwhore” look to a whole new level.
This time round the theme for his new designs was “Pastel Punks”, was immediately obvious when the first model came down the runway in a pastel colour-blocked shirt and high-waisted acid wash jeans with snakeskin heels. We bet he’s already made copies of everything in the collection for his bezzies. We loved the clever playing off of ultra-sugary pastel tones and childlike-colour blocking against the snarling aggression of sleek snakeskin boots and fishnet ankle socks.
Anyone who was hoping for some more of Holland’s patented sugary plaids won’t be let down as there are plenty of his trademark checks in bold mint and lilac colours – now all we’ve got to do is bust out our purple clogs, find some old school knee socks and we’ve got one look that Cher from Clueless would die for.
For his Spring/Summer 2012 collection, Holland has basically taken the archetypal Bad Girl, sat her down in front of some cartoons and given her a new cheeky bubblegum spin – and we have to say, trashy as the designs are, they are gloriously trashy and we can’t help loving him a little bit for just bringing some fun to the stuffiness and seriousness of one of fashion’s most prestigious events – because, really, isn’t that pretty punk and therefore pretty British of him?
Jaeger is one of Britain’s most well-loved brands and in fact part of our country’s fashion heritage, so naturally their new Spring/Summer 2012 collection, which was shown on Saturday afternoon amidst a typical London downpour, deserved a bit of a scrum to get in. Which of course there was.
Jaeger’s design aesthetic normally leans towards the darker, sharper end of the spectrum with angular shapes and plenty of cool greys and blacks, so we were pleasantly surprised when on the weekend, instead of their classic and sometimes austere silhouttes and colours, we were treated to an unusually girlish array from the brand that blasted away any preconceptions that Jaeger cannot be playful with their designs. Because this collection shows that they certainly can.
Tunic dresses and tops were a big staple on Jaeger London’s catwalk for this season, artfully skimming over the models’ figures for a shape that wasn’t overtly sexy but still remained to be girlish with a lot of thanks to some very sweet scalloping and soft sorbet colours as well as virginal whites – blush pink, icy blue and pale yellow all featured in the collection, while the brand also incorporated some more sizzling colours into their smart-casualwear. We were particularly taken by a pair of hot orange tapered trousers, which was effortlessly teamed with a light raincoat with matching orange piping.
For us, though, the show had to be all about the dresses, for as we watched the collection progress we began to see a theme of light, airy sun-dresses that fluttered around the models’ legs as they walked, teaming the stark simplicity which Jaeger is known for with other elegant, delicate touches such as chiffon hems and sweet bows at the neckline.
As Fashion Week goes, this collection may have not been earth-moving – we’ll leave that to the likes of Erdem and Westwood – but it was a gentle, pleasant surprise and a reminder that one of the UK’s oldest fashion labels shouldn’t be underestimated. We can’t wait to see what they do next.
All of the media’s coolest kids, including Peaches Geldof and Zara Martin, were out in full force last Friday at the beginning of LFW to watch Felder Felder’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection and add some hip gravitas to the proceedings.
Naturally the whole collection was just so London Fashion Week – if you ask me, LFW is the coolest of the runway seasons, even if Paris and Milan are a little more prestigious – with the Felder twins cleverly combining floaty chiffon-silks and pale digital prints with leather choker collars for a clean, tough and sexy approach to summer dressing. There were knowing hints at bondage and punk influences amongst the swirling, girly prints as leather straps in mint green and black criss-crossing across the bust of the dresses – these are designs for the girl next door with a dark secret.
The Felder girls listed their influences for the collection as “one part beach goddess, one part punk princess: otherwise known as Kate Moss on holiday”, and we can see that the supermodel has had an influence on these new Felder Felder pieces. The mystical, swirling digital prints of the floaty gowns combined with tough, glossy accessories and studs are pure Kate Moss all the way – we can predict these pieces being worn by A-listers next year at Coachella festival, for sure.
As for colour this season, FF seem to have had the same thought as many other designers and opted for ice-cream soft, warm colours for their Spring/Summer designs – but naturally even the sunniest of colours, such as mint green and coral, were given a dark edge with flashes of black leather and studs.
All in all, a beautifully executed collection from the Felder Felder girls that might just be one of the best shows this LFW. Sign us up for one of each piece, please.
Day 3 of London Fashion Week certainly brought out the big names in celebsville and fashion as Mulberry and Matthew Williamson were on the schedule.
Supermodels Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell were seen at Mulberry and Topshop Unique respectively, showing their support for the labels. Actress Sienna Miller was also to be seen at her friend Matthew Williamson’s show. An Erdem-clad Vogue US editor Anna Wintour had also jetted into town and was spotted frow (that’s fashion speak for front row) at Matthew Williamson, Nicole Farhi and the Topshop Unique show. The latter certainly shows the power Topshop holds on both sides of the Atlantic these days. Singer Kelis was also at Waterloo for the Unique show to see what Topshop has planned for spring/summer 2012
But where was Paloma Faith and her wonderful outfits??
Anna Wintour at Matthew Williamson
Marios Schwab is one of those designers who seems to be world-famous in the fashion industry, but completely unknown to anyone else. His shows tend to cause a bit of a stampede, and yesterday was no different. Held up by the late arrival of many editors, the show ran almost 45 mins late, but it was definitely worth the wait.
As opposed to all cheerful and bright collections we’ve seen this week, Schwab went to the dark side for his Spring/Summer show. Inspired by the heroines of Film Noir cinema, the girls came down the catwalk to the tune of an old horror movie soundtrack.