Forget the ’80s it was all about uptown elegance at the Carolina Herrera show yesterday.
Feminine pieces, designed with the actual female form in mind, floated down the runway in bronzed business suits, high-waisted pencil skirts, shimmery satin blouses in purple, fuchsia and teal.
Each fabric was so rich in colour and texture in was enough to make you want to reach out and grab it right off the model.
Last season, Victoria Beckham was suspected of allowing Roland Mouret to lend more than just a helping hand in her collection. But after presenting her fall/winter 2009-10 on Sunday, those suspicions appear to have been erased. Twenty-three dresses were showcased, each offering structure and tailoring but with a little bit more adventure this time. For example, cape-style coats, zipped sleeves, and fish-tail floor-length gowns. There were, of course, short hems in timeless designs, that she says can be worn for more than one season, a nod to the recession no doubt.
“I see these are investment buys. They’re designed to be worn from year to year, not season to season,” she said.
Guess what? Body-con ain’t going anywhere according to the folks at Preen. Their fall 2009-10 collection was choc-full of sliced body-con frocks offering just a glimpse of skin here and there. Add to that oversized houndstooth coats, fluffed up with Mongolian wool in black and white, skinny shiny trousers, and mini mod dresses in check. There was an interesting use of leather in one tight-fitting dress, modelled by Catherine McNeil, which featured a knot in the middle and cut-outs all over. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s continual pushing of the envelope was even enough to bring Kanye West and his entourage to the front row. Yes, really.
From London we head to Italy, where Roberto Cavalli opened Milan Fashion Week with his Just Cavalli spring/summer 2009 collection. Against a seascape backdrop, it was another unusual mix of leopard print, lace, leather and chiffon for the designer, but haven’t we seen this all before?
Messiahs of the red carpet gown, Marchesa, presented their spring/summer ’09 collection not on the catwalk but at an installation this week. As some have put it, it seems a shame not to see these pieces of artwork float about on the runway, but still, they are more than worth the pause in an otherwise too-hectic-for-words fashion week schedule.
“When the economy is not that good, we need to achieve, to do something even more special,” Carolina Herrera told the AP. And special it was indeed. The designer put on a show of feminine sophistication in her signature dresses – a favourite on the red carpet by the likes of Renee Zellweger, who sat on the front row after keeping the crowds waiting. Details in ruffles and beading added a luxe element to Herrera’s after-five gowns, and the odd tuxedo jacket thrown over the top reminded me of the end of many evenings. All that was needed was the models to walk along, bare-footed with heels in their hands.
Donna Karan celebrated her 20th anniversary collection yesterday morning, in front of a celeb-packed audience including Winona Ryder, Christina Ricci and Nicole Richie – who wore a DKNY striped tank to suit the show’s theme. Karan’s spring 2009 offering was a fun nod to New York, even right down to the gold DKNY plate necklaces – a Carrie Bradshaw reference.
See a catwalk video of the collection after the jump…
In creating a range for Target, Saunders joins the likes of Erin Fetherston, Jovovich-Hawk, Proenza Schouler, and more recently Richard Chai and Rogan Gregory.
In contrast to his comparatively girly show for Hervé Leger Max Azria’s A/W 08 show was a more mature affair. The palette was a slighty drab but earthy mix of midnight blues, mustards, greys and beiges and worked really well with the clothes. The froth of the Leger show was replaced by sheer tailoring and folded detailing on necklines and strict looking corset belts. Suspenders and stocking tops showed through sheer skirts but were tempered by demure top halves. My favourite detail from the show was the black ankle boots with grey gaiter-like tops (above right).
Forget the ’80s it was all about uptown elegance at the Carolina Herrera show yesterday.
From:Pictures: 2012 British Soap Awards - Best dressed, Michelle Keegan, Jennifer Metcalf and more