Shoulders. Shoulders, shoulders, shoulders. We’re only a couple of days into fashion week, but already there’s a big trend emerging. We say ‘emerging’, we’ve known about the return of the shoulder for ages, but it’s really showing itself in the collections in New York. Following a much softer silhouette last season, Jonathan Saunders has delivered a much stricter, more powerful collection for Autumn / Winter, with shoulders at the forefront. They were chunky and square, round and bubbled, or accentuated with sashes of bright colour. The main inspiration was birds, with bright colours cutting through a black background, and touches like rich brocades, bold prints and skyline-effect belts cut through to add interest. As usual, Saunders was on top form, bringing together all kinds of ideas but somehow delivering them cohesively.
How do you update the bandage dress season after season? That’s the challenge Max Azria and his wife face with Hervé Léger. So long as celebs want to strut their stuff in the tiny body-con numbers, they won’t be changing much, though this season the Azrias did add a bit of change with some a-line skirts, intricate strapwork and even more embellishment than ever before. This is not life-changing, artsy fashion. This is stuff that will fly off the racks as the starlet clamor to wear it on the red carpet. They should probably pick more sensible shoes though. Watch the video for NY’s first model tumble…
Diane Von Furstenberg’s flower children have definitely grown up for Fall 2009. Picking rich, sumptuous fabrics, glam prints and beautiful brocades, the collection was a touch of subtle glamour for a season that’s driven mainly by the recession. Huge cocoon coats and slouchy draped cardigans concealed layered looks in clashing prints like leopard, Prince of Wales check and geometric swirls. The usual wrap dresses, chic knits and wearable shaped were teamed with leggings, huge pom-pom hats and chunky jewellery for a youthful edge. By night, it got more glam with bacofoil dresses, animal print sheaths and sequin shifts. [all images courtesy of Coutorture.com]
Guess what? Body-con ain’t going anywhere according to the folks at Preen. Their fall 2009-10 collection was choc-full of sliced body-con frocks offering just a glimpse of skin here and there. Add to that oversized houndstooth coats, fluffed up with Mongolian wool in black and white, skinny shiny trousers, and mini mod dresses in check. There was an interesting use of leather in one tight-fitting dress, modelled by Catherine McNeil, which featured a knot in the middle and cut-outs all over. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s continual pushing of the envelope was even enough to bring Kanye West and his entourage to the front row. Yes, really.
Peruvian Shumaq designer Vanessa Barrantes (who is a total sweetheart BTW!) got her inspiration from a recent trip to Mexico in a small beach town. “I was feeling relaxed, and in turn the look became relaxed and sexy,” she told me.” They are fun and the dressing and shorts are fitted to the body, high-waisted with emphasis on the waist. I wanted clothes that felt good. ”
Using eco-friendly organic cotton as the basic fabric for her clothes, with denim and jersey, she has created a line that is flirty, playful, summery, sexy and feminine. The emphasis is on what feels good. And believe me, these clothes looked great! The dazzling palette of sherberty colors was sweet and fresh, hinting at happiness.
If you’re looking for flirty, feminine and fun, Tracy Reese never disappoints. Plus she puts on a good show.
When the strings of lights above the runway slowly lit up as the music began to pulse, everyone eagerly anticipated the first look.
The theme was soft, wearable dresses that translated to everyday wear; clothes that were effortlessly chic and sassy. Soft chiffon and slim ruffles combined with fitted belted waists added an ethereal look that just made the models merely float down the runway.
For more on Tracy Reese and who was front row (hint: an Ugly Betty star) keep reading.
When a designer takes her bow looking just as amazing as the model wearing the same creation as her, you know the clothes are going to sell. Monique Lhuillier constantly delivers reliably commercial, chic and romantic eveningwear, and this season she’s pulled out all the stops with brocades, silks and yards and yards of tulle. If you love a bit of glamour, you’ll be in heaven with this collection.
It’s always worth watching the Betsey Johnson show rather than just looking at the pictures, not just for the designer’s trademark cartwheel at the end of the show (no joke!) but also for the fun poses the models pull as they hit the end of the runway. Betsey’s shows are always about girlie, feminine fun, and this season’s offering doesn’t disappoint. I dare you not to smile!
Remember when Marc Jacobs showed that insane collection of Stepford-Wives-gone-Amy-Winehouse floral dresses and see-through trousers two hours late and sent the world of fashion into a headspin? This is Proenza Schouler’s version of that. With more money to throw into their collection this season, risks were taken where the boys have previously played safe. The result was a mixed show of everything from 80s jumpsuits to slinky silk dresses.
There were some stunners, but there was also a leather crop top…
Fashion Week’s in full swing and there’s only one question on everyone’s lips…where the hell is Sophia Bush? Last season’s NY Fashion Week darling hasn’t really been around the tents this year (neither has her biggest contender to the title, Mandy Moore) but there have still been plenty of big names gracing the front row. Jennifer Lopez took to the tents for Diane Von Furstenberg, sporting some of the biggest shades since Nicole Richie discovered Dior. Meanwhile, TV’s glam blondes Blake Lively and Becky Newton were there to show some support for Miss Sixty. Another noticeable absentee was Jessica Biel…surely she should have been showing her man some support at William Rast?
The answer is ‘probably’. Though nobody will be winning any design awards for safe the luxe-Western collection, it does what it says on the tin, tying in nicely with the theme we’ve seen in the Justin / Erin Wasson teaser campaign. I actually thought the menswear was much stronger than the womenswear, but there were some great leather jackets, metallic scarves and slouchy bleached denims on offer for the fairer sex…
Marc Jacobs had the fashion crowd schlepping their way downtown to the New York State Armory for his Marc by Marc Jacobs show this afternoon, but it was definitely worth the trip. I’ve always preferred this line to the collection, because I really enjoy the more accessible, wearable pieces Jacobs creates. His fall 08 runway was full of preppy-punk looks – lots of plaid and houndstooth in a palette of blacks and greys infused with bright pink, blue, and yellow. There were plenty of new It bag contenders, both large and small, and some fantastic shoes as well.
Spotted: Rachel Zoe, Hillary Alexander, Carine Roitfeld, Fergie and countless NY socialites.
The Wells Fargo Century Fashion Achievement Award went to Max Azria at the Los Angeles Fashion Awards this week, Catwalk Queen relates.
The designer received the award on behalf of his contribution towards the LA fashion industry where he set up his label BCBG in 1989.
“We may be a worldwide brand, but this is home,” said Azria, as he collected his award. Other designers recognized included Juan Carlos Obando and Fred Segal. The night also featured five runway shows.
From:Pictures: 2012 British Soap Awards - Best dressed, Michelle Keegan, Jennifer Metcalf and more